Falafel for One: What it’s like as a solo female traveler in Damascus, Syria

I walked up to the entrance of the Damascus National Museum that morning, planning to make the most of my last few hours of my first trip to this ancient city. It was a chilly Tuesday morning at the beginning of February, only 2 months after the Assad regime fell, and after 14 years of incredibly complex and complicated conflict across the whole of the country.

Damascus is the oldest continuously inhabited capital in the world; its name is referenced in the Bible, Islamic literature, Jewish texts, and historical literature. It’s been at the center of civilization for over 5000 years! To say that I was thrilled to discover that the National Museum was still even open was an understatement. All of that history to explore!

So, after my taxi drop-off, I walked shyly but confidently up to the gate, ready to buy my ticket and get exploring, wondering what I would find.

Closed. Even though I’d researched opening hours, to see if it was allowing visitors, I missed one important fact: it’s closed on Tuesday. Welp… Can I at least walk around the garden? I have a few hours to kill before my travel back to Amman. Sure, the guard said.

The gardens are small, with some mosaics, statues and other carvings smattered amongst the trees, flowers and greenery. It was easy to spend 45 minutes or so just breathing in nature, in the middle of a bustling city. Even then, I was already counting down my next visit, which I hoped to be in the Spring, to see the blooms of this beautiful space.

As I headed to the exit, a man approached me, speaking in broken English and miming to a building – from the hand gestures, I could tell he was asking to show me something. Curiosity got the better of me, so I followed a man, whom I didn’t know, whom I couldn’t communicate with, to a place where I wasn’t familiar. Why? It just felt…safe.

And I entered into one of the most beautiful rooms, I’ve ever seen! The walls, the ceiling, the floor, the furniture were covered in Damascene-style mosaic, a meticulous craft that uses different types of wood, such as lemon, walnut, rose, olive, or eucalyptus, as well as camel bone or mother-of-pearl, to create pieces of art in an incredibly time-intensive way.

I have loved this style for years, so to walk into a room covered head-to-toe in this way!? I could not stop gasping. My friend-slash-guide tried to tell me about the room, and I asked a few questions, trying to understand more about it.  Unfortunately, our communication was stunted due to limited English (his part) and limited Arabic (my part). But it was so clear that the enjoyment of this beauty was mutual. 😊

And then I left! Graciously thanking him for this surprise, even on a day when the museum was closed.

In late April, I was actually able to visit the National Museum on a day when it was open. I arrived, bought my ticket and explored the museum. The curator walked around with me, clearly excited to have visitors at the museum. I could somehow understand that he worked at the museum for many years, and knew the ins-and-outs of this small but lovely museum. He even showed me the basement room (normally closed off to the public) that had artifacts from Palmyra. I was also shown the beautiful Damascene mosaic room again! The hospitality and excitement to show something these men were clearly passionate about easily transferred over to me in awe and curiosity.

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I tell this story as just one example of my time in Damascus, frequently as a (blonde, white, limited-Arabic-speaking) woman, alone in public spaces.

All on my own, I walked through downtown to the Old City at dusk.

I navigated through the Hamidiyah Souk and its surrounding maze of streets on my own.

I walked to and from the office morning and night.

On my own, I arranged and took YallaGo! taxis.

I ordered my own food, and frequently sat at restaurants and bars across the city on my own.

I walked back to the hotel from friends’ houses or restaurants late in the evening… on my own.

Depending on where I was reactions to me ranged from complete ignoring to begging for food to trying to sell me items to staring intently to hospitality and welcome. From men and women (and children, I must add). I had many a “Sabah al Khayr” or “Good Morning”. I also had “how are you” and “ahlan w sahlan” (welcome). And don’t get me started on the smiles. Everywhere.

Ok, ok, because I also want to ensure that you have realistic picture, I have to share that there are still moments where it feels uncomfortable, particularly if you aren’t used to men with guns around, and due to the amount of people that can/do approach you.

For my experience, it only happened once where I felt quite uncomfortable. I was waiting for a colleague in the very busy square by Umayyad Mosque, surrounded by people, children, men and women selling items, and people entering the mosque itself.

After waiting there for a few minutes, I noticed that I was getting stared at in a way that made me feel too conspicuous on my own. As I was waiting for a colleague, so I went to a nearby coffee shop to sit inside rather than in the very public square. Truth be told, I still don’t think I was at any risk, but I also knew I felt more comfortable being in a coffee shop than standing in the middle of a busy area.

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what is it like as a female travelling in Damascus? What advice can I give?

As of now, there is no specific reason why travelling in Damascus is substantially more risky or complicated for a woman than for a man. Yes, you will see more men in public. But you will also find warmth and solidarity in the eyes of the women, when they are around. You may get some looks, or even some stares, but I always felt they were either of curiosity or maybe with a desire to sell you something. You always will find people living a normal life, eating, drinking coffee, spending time with friends.

Here’s what I can tell you:

• I personally did not experience any catcalling, but it’s possible, same as it is in many other cities and countries around the world. As of now, I have not heard of any specific incidents targeting a foreigner in Syria, let alone a female foreigner.
• Because it’s so dark at night (due to lack of electricity), it can feel more unsafe than is likely. Adapt how you get around after dark to what makes you feel most comfortable.
• Respecting the culture and not drawing unnecessary attention to yourself is a protective measure.  
• Limit eye contact with men; sometimes westerners are more prone to hold the gaze of others, as a way to acknowledge presence. That could be considered bold, or even flirting in this region.
• However, a nod of the head with a smile, or putting your hand on your heart, is considered polite and recognizes the individual (regardless of their gender).
• Be observant of your surroundings (good advice in many contexts!).
• Trust your instincts. Always and in every situation.
• Err on the side of modesty in your clothing (more on that to come!). Definitely no shorts!
• Be aware that some restaurants and places may have separate areas for women only or men only. I’ve always found this as a good thing! Less staring and I’ve found that with just women, there’s so much more comradery and hospitality to enjoy!
• Be interested to learn, and ask questions, even if there is a language barrier! I know I keep mentioning the hospitality, but it’s because it’s true!
• Don’t be afraid to ask to find someone who speaks English, or your native tongue, just to help ease the language barrier. They could also be helpful in situations that feel too complicated if you don’t speak Arabic (like telling a taxi driver where to go).

I would not be remiss to note that there are some considerations for your nationality or ethnicity, that would not be appropriate for me to speak to. It really must depend on your own comfort level and understanding. For example, I know a woman of Iranian descent who was very nervous to visit Syria, and another woman of Iranian descent who could not have been more excited.

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So would I recommend travelling to Syria as a female, whether alone or with other women?

YES! Wholeheartedly. And, if you follow this guidance, I know you will find Damascus warm, cozy and as safe as I did. Yalla Habibti and Bon Voyage!

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*Note: Be sure to check out my full Damascus guides for the comprehensive advice: How to Travel to Damascus, Where to Stay in Damascus, Getting Around in Damascus and the Damascus Survival Guide.